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  • AF447

    I've been much saddened by the shocking news of the AF447 that vanished over the Atlantic enroute from Rio de Janeiro to Paris. I've been following the bad news day and night, as if I'd had a friend or relative on board on that unfortunate flight. For I have been flying backwards and forwards along that route quite a lot in the past few years. As how my friend David has put it, the Gods were with me!!!

    My deepest sorrow for all of you, friends and families of the passengers of the fateful AF447 from Rio to Paris, who vanished to void on June 1, 2009.

  • June 4, 1989

    A lot of my friends commemorated June 4, 1989 Tiananmen massacre via words, photos, actions. I didn't. I wish I had but it felt difficult.

    For I'm in China right now where anything as such was banned, in public that is.

    And that I'd already left china, twenty years ago, precisely six months prior to the time when the brutal acts took place in Tiananmen Square where my university friends protested hungerstroke. However for me, when things so tragic so brutal happened in a distant place, it was really hard to imagine that it'd really happened!

    Nevertheless, I felt very emotional yesterday, the 20th anniversary of the Tiananmen Massacre. While I looked at the photos of the candle vigil from Hongkong and London, I wish I was there among the crowds!

    I left China 'for good' precisely twenty years ago, for Berlin, then West Germany. And life has taken me to such a rich, wild and emotional roller-coaster ever since than I could have ever dreamed of.

    While twenty years is nothing, according to Gardel in Volver, one of the greatest voices in the history of tango, it is quite something for me, for it is half of my life.

  • Shanghai Shanghai

    There will be no Shanghai diaries, as I have yet to come to terms with my place of birth. And more often than not, it takes much effort to stay upbeat. But I've promised myself not to be negative this time.

    For the last ten days or so since my return from Argentina, I've been busying myself with lots of activities. Yoga, taichi, more yoga, more taichi, pampered by full-body massages, reflexology and occasional facials. With less than 10 bucks a session, China offers the best massage services in the world no doubt! Six months of dancing and living in one of the busiest noisiest the most polluted cities in the world takes its toll. My body is full of pains. My skin dry and flaky. I need a rest. A damn good rest.

    Meanwhile, I'm contemplating leaving again soon soon, and perhaps for a very long time if not for good. As it takes too much effort to stay upbeat in China so it seems. All I want is to be myself. I want to be normal, relaxed, happy. But here I can't. Miguel, my milonguero friend, loves China. He can't understand why anyone would dislike this country. He should have! Sick of Argentina, where he lived for half of a century, he's moved to live in the beautiful south of France. Grass is always greener on the other side.

    Miguel might not mind so much the fact that youtube is banned here, as well as many other websites, publications and films. He might even be amused to see lap dogs wearing shoes (4 little shoes on each foot that is) walking on the streets and having the fur on their ears died funny pink and tails apple green. He might just be a little bit annoyed with people elbow him aside while he tries to get on to the subway, spitting to his path every now and then on the streets, puffing cigarette smoke straight into his face and with cars and motorcycles cutting his zebra-crossings short. Without the lingua, he can easily shut out people's obsessive compulsive yelling in public with share prices, property prices, business negotiations big or small on the phone off the phone, spitting in between, with colleagues, dealers, suppliers, friends, girlfriends, wives, ex-wives everywhere anywhere. Being a Westerner, he also escapes from being deemed as a failure at 55, still a bachelor, still childless. However, for someone native like myself, there is no escape unless I get out of the country!

    Nowhere is perfect I hear. But I also believe that there is always somewhere where one can be more at ease with one's soul.

    Yesterday, I lied for the first time to my masseur who started to ask me about my husband and children assuming that a woman my age is certain to have all of them. I told her that my husband is English, that he is in London looking after our 8-year old daughter while I'm away. You see, after years of trying to convince people to no avail that being single is being free, that I'm happy with or without children, I've finally decided to tell the tales that please the ears. Totally out of character if you know me.

    The other day while walking home from the underground station, I saw a white little thing flying out from a third floor window. I simply couldn't believe what I saw. It was a new born kitten being thrown out alive. The image of the poor little thing dying in utter agony still pains me so very much. It's damn hard work to stay upbeat with a day like this.

    Meanwhile, I'm busying myself with yoga, taichi, tachi, yoga and planning a run-away to Tibet. I'm trying trying.

  • Buenos Aires Diaries: Leaving

    Never has bidding-farewell been so light-hearted!!! For I've been telling all my friends that I'm coming back soon! It's a great trick! First tell the tale. Then let your mind buy into it. Then you are really coming back in no time! Why didn't I use it before? The power of make-belief!

    It's been such an inspiring fulfilling six months. I want to extend it into indefinite future!

    Chau, mis amigos! Chau, Pipi! Un beso grande y un fuerte abrazo! Nos vemos pronto!!!

  • Buenos Aires Diaries: Carlos Puente

    You must meet Carlos Puente if you're in Buenos Aires and are mad about tango music from the Golden Age (late 1920s to 50s).

    Professor of the history of tango both at the Academia del Tango and the University of Tango Buenos Aires, Carlos also hosts a bi-weekly AM radio programme on tango and sells a huge collection of tango CDs at Buenos Aires Tango club.

    He is a walking encyclopedia of Golden Age tango! Whatever you say, for example, 'it's a lie', he would pick it up and a tango with a guy who lies through his teeth would come singing out from his throat.

    He can site endlessly the titles of tangos from every single composer, singer, orchestra, the time of the recording, etc, etc. So much so that you would start to wander whether he is human or not. As, believe you me, there are thousands around. My trick is to make him talk next to a CD player so that I can listen to his collection of magical melodies at the same time and it always feels like a treat! No one knows tango better than he does. From an academic point of view that is. Though his only and very reason for disliking contemporary tango is that they all sound too academic, too studied, less spontaneous, less gente de barrio (people from the neighbourhood). To cut it short, he calls them 'todos ruidos!' All noises. And he has a point.

    The other day, during one of my final visits to pick up those albums I'm still missing, it suddenly occurred to me to ask him about Piazzolla. Maybe he does give some concessions to modern noises. Carlos looked at me without blinking his eyes behind his beer-bottle-bottom spectacles, 'Piazzolla is a bad vocabulary for me!' But then he went to his shelf and picked up an early album of Piazzolla from the 30s and said 'This is the only good one from him! Look at the photo of him! There he looks normal!' Piazzolla was 25 at the time. A clean-cut, nice looking young man in a sharp suit, like every other nice looking young man at the time I guess. He was smiling nicely in the shot and holding his bandoneon neatly on his knees. Then Carlos picked up another album from the shelf with Piazzola in the 80s. 'Look at him now! Doesn't he look like a mad man!' Hmmm...he does! In his mid-70s, Piazzollo looks scruffy with a head of messy thinning hair, in a shapeless shirt baring his upper chest. Furiously, he was in the midst of playing one of his modern compositions.

    'But doesn't madness often make genius?' I probed.

    'In this case, no!' Carlos snapped back.

    By then I was too hungry for food to question the authority any further. But how about Amelita Baltar, whose Balada Para un Loco has tightened my breathes so many times?

    'Ah, this woman doesn't exist for me!!!'

    Later on back at home, when I told my landlady Margarita Carlos' views on contemporary tango, she laughed, 'It's amazing how some people can be frozen in time like an ice-cream!'

    I know what I'm going to miss very much when I leave Argentina. Tango and ice-cream, to name just two!

  • Buenos Aires Diaries: The flaw of perfection

    A reminder to myself, a self-confessed perfectionist:

    The more I take technique classes, the more I resist techniques. I know I'm on the last leg of rehabilitation from a broken leg, from loss of balance and muscular strength. But ultimately, do I really want to dance so impeccably? With neat footwork, the utter most body control and steps as precise as the Swiss clockwork? If so, what is dance really about? And art?

    It's a relief to know that dance still remains out of the Olympics Games and dancers a different crowd from those of acrobats and gymnasts. Having said that, the boundaries seem to blur more often than not these days.

    How many times have I watched a video clip or live performance of yet another speedy and technically flawless tango couple without having my blood gushing up in my veins and heart beating faster? Like what the Argentines say 'Bailan bien pero no me llevo nada.'

    So what makes it to reach one's heart?

    In the excellent tango documentary Si Sos Brujo, the old master Emilio Balcare commented on a tango played by a group of highly accomplished young musicians in Buenos Aires that it was very good, however, what was it the Fat Man (most likely the tango genius Anibal Troilo) said? To express tango you need to muddy it up...

    When I first started to dance, the young Geraldine Rojas was the IT girl of tango. She was truly special! What made her dance so unique and captivating was her raw passion, her lack of pretense and her overflowing sensuality. She was then widely regarded as the true embodiment of Argentine tango! Una tanguera to boot! I found out later that she didn't have any formal academic training in dance. Today, more and more young dancers shoot to success and fame. Many remain competent academic dancers. However, I have yet to see the sparks that can set a forest on fire the young Geraldine once did.

    There is something to be said about aiming for perfection. It's part of the learning process. It takes a hell lot of training. And the mastery of the techniques, superb control of our body movements is not to be sneered at. It sets us free. However, it's only half of the journey. The rest is to drop it all and starts to play. It takes guts to play, to be dirty, ugly, real, to slow down, to stop, all in order to be one's true humble self! It delights me to know that I'm on the path of such a journey!

    zapatas nuevas

  • Buenos Aires Diaries: What makes my mouth watering

    Every time I cook, it's a one-off feast. People ask me what I'm cooking. I say I don't know as I'm making it up along the way. Just like the way I live.

    The thing is I'm in Argentina, a bit far from China where I'm from, a bit far from Europe where I've spent half of my life. So what to do without all those things I'm missing? Luckily, improvisation is my strength. Such as right now when I've just made up the most delicious rice dish I've ever tasted, lubricated by a beautiful red wine called La Linda from Mendoza Argentina. It's Good Friday, not that it means much to an atheist me from afar. Still it's a holiday when food matters, especially when one is alone!

    The recipe goes with garlic and spring onions, finely chopped up and shallow fried, with a baby green pumpkin (no such a thing in China) and dried shiitakes (imported from the northern forests of my country), both chopped up into little chunks. Then comes the chicken potato curry saucy (Chinese curry that is) with decent chunks of curry potatoes and steamed jasmine rice. Stir fry. Stir fry. Until everything blends well in. Finally, add in finely chopped up juicy organic tomato bits and boiled beetroot chunks (common roots where I am but exotic produce where I'm from). They are refreshers to that intense curry flavor. That's it. A photo taken before I wolfed it down like a hurricane.

    mouthwatering

  • Buenos Aires Diaries: Pipi went home

    Pipi left the other day. His mum Cristina came and picked him up, now that he is a healthy little puppie bursting with energies and her back is hurting her less.

    He is now 3 months old and no longer the same poorly little thing lying helplessly in my arms only a short while ago but time seems to have lapsed and his sickness a distant memory. Life has been galloping fast fast forward.

    pipi

    I held him as much as I could the night he was leaving while him trying to bite my fingers, wrists, arms...He is so much bigger now. His limbs slender, body heavier, tail thinner and longer, paws fleshier. His ears are half way to the floor and his face... My God, I can no longer hold him still for a second! What has happened to that tender little thing who slept like an angel in my arms!

    Still it's better this way. He looks like a proper dog now. A juvenile. He eats like a vacuum cleaner. He pees and shits wherever he pleases. He bites relentlessly on everything anything. He has no fear. He is a pain in the arse. He is a puppie bursting with life, a life he nearly nearly lost only a very short while ago.

    He was the star of the evening. Everybody adored him, marveling at his cute puppiness, his liveliness, his innocence. Everybody tried to hold him in his/her arms for as long as they managed. Of course, he was completely unaware of what was going on. He kept on biting on everything anything, trying to pinch Jazmina's bones and chasing anything on the move. Then the adults took more photos with him, packed his stuff...toys, food, bedding and off he went, without knowing where on earth he was off to. However, he did stay still in my arms, nicely still, while I was taking him out of the house, no tossing turning, no biting like a maniac, just nice quite for a change. God knows what was going on in his little doggie mind.

    After infinite kisses and hugs, he left in his mum and dad's car to his new house. Oh Pipi, all is going to be well for you! I know, I just know.

    Os is heart-broken. He loves his dogs more than any humans and Pipi was no exception. Two months of single dad. Intensive care, sleepless nights, close to death devastation, relentless cleaning of pees, vomits, diarrheas and turds everywhere in the house all day for 2 months, tons of bounding, playing, sweet talks with this cutest little thing on earth, joy while watching him recovering, eating like a hurricane, growing like a miracle. But all of a sudden, he's gone like a dream! What remains is some newspapers on the floor, torn and stained. Pipi's toilette training. And a little note lovingly taped on the door. 'Please open the door very slowly! Puppie inside!' I took it off quietly. Suddenly I had an urge to cry.

    And so I did the next day. A tearful day. Gloom.

    Cristina rang to tell that Pipi arrived safely to his new house. He carried on to play straight away. Only that he cried a bit when they turned the lights out to sleep. But her husband stayed with him on the floor till he fell asleep.

    The life of a dog! Sometimes I wish I was one of them. It doesn't seem to be too bad to have such little consciousness, unlike us humans, me in particular, who are utterly liable of being stirred up by memories like now, and that grey sentiment called melancholia. The memory of that impossible tenderness of a fury little life in my arms! The memory of being so overpowered by his utter powerlessness.

    pipilovepipimiamor
    Pipi's departure reminds that of mine, very soon, from Buenos Aires.

  • Buenos Aires Diaries: Time to go...in order to come back fresh!

    My body is aching and tired, my mind fuzzy, my stack of dollar notes thinning, my insurance policy ending...it's time to go.

    It's been a fruitful six months! With much inspiration, learning, falling in love with the sweetest puppie in the world, summer sun and peace in heart! I consider myself lucky.

    The only thing I regret is not having taken myself out of the town. Buenos Aires can be a sucker. Six months stuck in town without a breather?! Still, it could be worse.

    So I'm leaving. I'm leaving to rest my body, to refresh my mind, to digest all I've learnt, and to come back fresh and new.

    I'm not feeling sad about leaving, as I have a feeling that I'll be back soon. Indeed, very soon!

  • Buenos Aires Diaries: A Love Song to Pichichin

    Xiaosong-Pichicho osito 2

    You land in my arms like a fallen angel
    A fallen angel
    Fresh born can hardly see
    Stumbling here Stumbling there
    A furry mini teddy sooo sweet
    Beautiful
    The old ladies cry 'santo' when they see you on the street.

    pichipoorly

    You are sick so desperately sick
    Mama doesn't want you
    She pushes you and your hermanitos into this world
    Then walks away from you all for good.

    My orphan child
    In my arms
    Poorly
    Silently
    You fight, you stay put to fight
    A rainbow warrior.

    That night I cannot sleep
    Sitting on the floor by your side
    My tears roll into yours when your poor little body is torn by pains
    I can't even caress you
    It hurts too much
    I know, baby, I know
    For my heart is pierced too by your every scream.

    Those desperate moments
    When you drift away to where you are from
    Perhaps never back
    The heart sinks
    The moon pales
    I hold you tight on my breast
    Willing my heart-beats stimulate yours
    The warmth of my body by the side of your tormented baby soul
    Long nights
    Gloomy nights
    Only wake to find you still alive the next day
    You are a miracle, baby, a miracle.

    It's tango I've come to Buenos Aires for
    But I've stopped dancing because of you
    Strangely though it feels fine it feels just fine
    With your tender love in my arms
    I no longer long for substitutes.

    You land in my arms like a fallen angel
    A fallen angel
    With you dark brown eyes gazing into mine
    Baby, you're the best gift to me!
    Pichichin Pichichin
    Pipi Chichi mi amor corazon.

    babysito

    Happy Birthday, Pichichin! Today you're 2 months old!!! Te amo mucho! Mama

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